There are several choices for women when it comes to reenacting, both civilian and military, but it may seen a daunting task, especially for those new to reenacting, to find the right role. Here are a few of your choices with a little practical advice to make your journey into Civil War reenacting more authentic and enjoyable.
Period photographs, along with magazines such as Godey's Ladies' Book, are great sources to ensure authentic clothing. Look carefully before you buy!
Finding the right clothing may be difficult, depending on how much information you can find. I recommend Juanita Leisch's book Who Wore What?: Women's Wear 1861-1865 for civilian impressions. Women's clothing is pretty basic, it is separated into about three age groups: approximately ages 13-25, 25-50 and 50+. Young women and girls wore newer fashions, Zouave jackets Garibaldi blouses with large puffed sleeves and light colored hairnets, if any. Older women usually wear a dress made of one fabric rather than two as younger women did. They wore broaches rather than a tie at the neck and more often wore the hair confined. If you are of high class, you will most likely want a corset and hoop for your dress, while working women or women in camp would do without for practical reasons, although lower classes did have working corsets which lack stays. Few women would wear a standard corset while doing housework.
Hair was styled to give the face a wide or round appearance, most often parted in the middle and confined at the neck. Shoulders were to slope gently "like a wine bottle" and garments were sewn accordingly, with the sleeves slightly off the shoulder. It should be noted that hairnets, or "snoods" as they are popularly called since World War II, were worn during the Civil War, but were not very common; they became more widely used after the War.
Below is a list of the requirements for a higher class woman. It may seem like a lot, and it is, but do not feel that you must purchase everything at once. I personally purchased my clothing starting on the outside and working in. Most won't notice if you wear knee socks instead of thigh-high stockings or modern underwear. Keep in mind, if you are handy with a needle you can save a lot of money!
From outside in :
Dress or Blouse and Skirt
Corset Cover
Over-the-Hoop Petticoats (1-3)
Hoop
Corset
Under-the-Hoop Petticoat
Chemise
Drawers (Although only about half of Civil War
women wore them!)
Stockings/Garters
Boots
You'll probably also want a whole bunch of little extras, they really do make a difference but can be more costly than the clothing. I would also suggest that you obtain a Civil War etiquette book so you can fit in with your new Victorian friends. Pace yourself, you do not need to buy everything at once!
Reenacting and Civil War magazines, as well as message boards on the Internet are excellent sources for inexpensive items being sold by those getting out of reenacting.
So, you're not content to watch from the sidelines, eh? Your options for a military impression are extremely limited for Civil War era. While not actually sanctioned by the military as the French women were, many consider Vivandières and daughters a military role due to the style of uniform. If you would like to be a Vivandière or daughter of the regiment like those on my webpage, I have a few suggestions to keep you from getting laughed out of camp. First of all, this is very important, portray a Vivandière or daughter of the regiment that actually existed. If you are not part of a unit, choose a real Vivandière or daughter. For authenticity's sake, it does no good to answer questions about a uniform or person that never existed; that would be rewriting history. Secondly, read everything you can about the woman you choose. I know resources can be extremely limited, but regimental histories as well as some of the books in my bibliography may be able to help you. The easiest way to learn what to wear, however is always to study the lady you have chosen. Remember, if you are a woman, you are not trying to look like a man. Wear a corset unless you can document otherwise; bras were not invented until the early 20th century. You will find that working or rational corsets will be less irksome and are more appropriate for camp and reenactments, while a normal corset would be appropriate for dress parade. Women's pants (i.e. Bloomer or Rational dress) did not button in the front, they button on each side with 1-3 buttons depending on the lady's preference; they often had elastic at the ankle as well. A woman's blouse, unless otherwise documented, is appropriate in most cases. Less importantly, most Vivandières and daughters fell between the ages of 18 and 25. Of course, not everyone looks their age; attempt to portray someone near your own age.
If being a Vivandiére is still too girly for you, you may be considering an impression as a woman masquerading as a man. This is probably one of the most controversal topics in reenacting today and may cause you a bit of trouble if it is done incorrectly. Keep in mind that I have never masqueraded as a man because I did not feel I could pull it off so I am by no means and expert.
Historians have so far compiled about 600 names of women discovered in the ranks, though the number may be more. Most units have some sort of rule about women in the ranks, some forbid it altogether, some have a "five yard rule;" if you are detectable as a woman at 15 feet, you cannot participate. Each unit handles it differently. If you are detectable within a few feet as a woman, you may want to reconsider your choice. Most women are unable to pull off the role convincingly. Stuffing your hair under your hat and deepening your voice will usually not fool anyone. You are better off not talking, or being monosyllabic and walking with care, and obviously, no makeup or Gen. Lee Press-On Nails! But with a lot of effort, it is possible to convincingly portray a male soldier.
Soldier beware! Some units will still drum a woman out of camp if she is discovered!
© Elizabeth Atkins, 2000